Linalool
INCI · Linalool · also Linalol
How it works
Linalool is a terpene alcohol and one of the most widely distributed scent molecules in the plant world. It carries much of the smell of lavender, and appears in coriander, basil, rosewood, bergamot and hundreds of others. It is also synthesised on an industrial scale, and the two are the same compound. As with the other declared fragrance allergens, its line on an ingredient list usually reports a constituent of something else rather than a separate addition.
In a formula it does one thing: it smells. It has no part in hydration, barrier repair or anything else the product may be sold for. Where it appears under a botanical name higher up the list and again under its own further down, those are not two ingredients.
The evidence
The fresh molecule is a weak sensitiser and most people never react to it. What is documented, and is the reason it appears on declaration lists at all, is what happens when it meets air: linalool autoxidises, and the peroxides formed in that process are the sensitising species rather than the parent molecule. A material that has been open, warm or lit for a long time is not the material it was.
That reframes the practical question. It is not whether a product contains linalool, since enormous numbers do, but whether the linalool in it has aged, which nothing on the pack tells you. Formulators counter it with antioxidants and with packaging that keeps air and light out, and the same formula in a pump and in an open jar are not equally protected. Someone who has become sensitised reacts afterwards to quantities that are trivial by any other measure, and that does not fade with avoidance.
Suitability
- Not an active; no skin type is better or worse served by its presence as such
- A clear reason to avoid it if patch testing has named it
- A general reason for care where the barrier is broken, inflamed or newly exfoliated
- Very common in products positioned as natural, because that is where the lavender is
Concentration
No figure. Its appearance on a list means a locally set declaration threshold was passed, not that a particular amount is present, and those thresholds differ by market and have been revised. Beyond that, the variable that actually decides the risk, the proportion already oxidised, is not something a percentage could capture, because it goes on changing in your bathroom after you buy it.
Conflicts & combinations
No chemical incompatibilities. Two things are worth doing. Keep strongly scented oils and balms closed, cool and out of the light, because the storage is the risk here rather than the recipe. And notice the stacking: a lavender-scented cleanser, mist and cream is three exposures, and the person who reacts at the third one is not reacting to the third one alone.
- Effective from
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- Max safe
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Is linalool a fragrance?
Yes, and that is its whole job in a skincare formula. Where it appears with no fragrance listed, it came in with a plant oil or extract that is there for another reason.
Why does the same list show lavender oil and linalool?
Because linalool is a major part of lavender oil, and the rules require it to be named separately once it passes a set level. That is one material appearing on two lines, not two ingredients.
Is the natural one gentler?
No. It is the same molecule, and the property that causes reactions belongs to its oxidation products, which form regardless of how it was made.
Should I avoid it?
Only for a reason: a known fragrance allergy, a dermatitis-prone or currently broken barrier, or a pattern of reacting to scented products. Blanket avoidance rules out a very large part of the market for a risk most people do not run.
Does an unopened product age too?
Slowly. Oxidation needs oxygen, so a sealed product is far more stable than an opened one, though heat and light still count. Once it is open, time starts to matter.